In recent times the subject of bespoke tailoring has become a widely-discussed topic amongst gents and tailors alike. Over the past few weeks, I’ve partnered with my friends at Sartor to discover exactly what it means to make a bespoke suit. The following paragraphs are a result of my “sartorial journey”
Introduction to fabrics
The foundation of any bespoke experience is the selection of the right fabrics. During my visits to Sartor, I quickly learned that there are three broad categories of suit fabrics; Wool, Cotton and Linen. Other categories are essentially a combination of at least two of these fabrics – ( e.g wool & cotton).
As a rule of thumb, fabrics are classified according to the weight, the lighter the fabric, the higher the quality. I was in the market for a suit that’s loud enough to wear for events and still subtle enough to wear for work. I wanted something versatile so I opted for grey super 120 wool fabric. This means I picked a very light fabric, that’s 100% wool and almost wrinkle free as the foundation for my bespoke suit.
A big part of bespoke tailoring is the fitting and details that comprise the suit. The primary difference between a ready to wear piece and a bespoke piece is often found in the fit.
For my 120-wool piece, I decided to go with a single-breasted suit with wide notch lapels. It was imperative that the suit fit me perfectly, to achieve this, my friends at Sartor took a comprehensive set of measurements. However, the secret of the bespoke process rests in the “fitting session” conducted by the master tailor. It's a sheer display of craftsmanship designed to make sure every single part of the suit fits perfectly.
Details and Finishes
They say the devil is in the details, for me my favorite part of the bespoke experience is the colorful inner linings that no one else gets to see.
Since I opted for a fully deconstructed jacket, the only portion of the jacket that’s lined is the upper back and the pockets but I managed to make the best use of it :) The splash of color here and there makes for a good contrast and ultimately makes the jacket feel "personal" - or "bespoke".
It's important to note that this post is not exhaustive - bespoke features can range from simple fitting sessions to extensive customization like personalized buttons, embroidered name tags etc. However, I've tried to paint a picture that demystifies the whole experience such that even a beginner has an idea of what it means.
In conclusion, Bespoke Tailoring is an experience I strongly recommend for any fashion forward gentleman out there. My experience with Sartor was rewarding in many ways and I invite you to see for yourself. Like the say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
If you have had a bespoke tailoring experience and would love to share, I would love to listen. Please get in touch , very few things are more exciting than talking suits with like minded gentlemen.
In these photos
Three Piece Suit – Sartor